Fashion for November 1816

The weather is cooling down but the fashions are hotting up.

What could be more Regency than this striped gown?

From Ackermann's November 1816

Evening Dress

A lilac and white striped gauze dress over a white satin slip; the bottom of the skirt is ornamented with five rows of white silk trimming of a very light and elegant description: it has just been introduced, and the pattern has more novelty than any thing we have seen for some time: a single flounce of deep blond lace completes the trimming. 

The body is also very novel; the upper part is formed of lace, and the lower of gauze, to correspond with the dress: the latter is quite tight to the shape, but the former has an easy fullness, which forms the shape in a manner extremely advantageous to the figure. 

The sleeve is short and very full; it is composed of lace, looped high, and finished by a trimming to correspond with that on the skirt. 

The hair is full dressed, without any ornament. 

 Ann LethbridgeNecklace, cross, armlets and bracelets of rubies. White satin slippers, and white kid gloves.

I like this gown, very pretty and flattering.  Get out your rubies, ladies!

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What Did They Wear in November 1816?

Two hundred years ago the fashion looked like this.

Morning Gown, November 1816, Ackermann's
A ROUND dress, composed of cambric; the skirt is finished at bottom by four rows of rich embroidery and two flounces of work;  it is very full; and the body, which is a chemisette, has also considerable fullness thrown behind. 

The body is made up to the throat, and trimmed at the neck with a double frill of rich work: it is made very full behind, but plain in front. 

A long loose sleeve, finished at the wrist by three puffings and a single fall of narrow work. 

Head-dress a morning cornette, composed of fine clear muslin, with a border to correspond. The form of this cornette is uncommonly novel and striking; the crown is ornamented, something in the style of a turban, with rolls of muslin, and finished at the top by a bow of straw-coloured ribbon. 

Gloves and sandals of straw colour. 

A new pattern silk handkerchief thrown carelessly over the shoulder, completes the dress.

Cornettes apparently continued to be the head dress of choice in this year.  I love the hem line, with all the layers of lace.  I assume the carelessly thrown handkerchief not only serves as decoration, but assists in parrot poop clean up.  I think this is the first time I have seen a pirate parrot on one of these plates.

Until next time.........

Regency Fashion November 1815

Promenade Dress ~ From Ackermann's November 1815

Here is the description:

A round pelisse made of the Moreno blue striped satin; long loose sleeve, trimmed over the hand with plain satin; a full ruff composed of the finest French cambric, richly ornamented with French work. 

A small French shawl of shaded silks thrown carelessly over the shoulders. 

A bonnet composed of orange-coloured satin, gipsied with a handkerchief of the same, edged and tied under the chin with Moreno blue satin ribbon; the handkerchief and the rim of the bonnet trimmed with blond lace, and a cluster of wild flowers ornamenting the crown. 

Sandals, red or blue morocco. Gloves, York tan.

The shawl looks rather carefully placed to me, but the description makes it sound enchanting, doesn't it?

I love seeing the reticule and although it is not described although it is not described, the colour makes it stand out beautifully, don't you think?

Until next time….

Regency Fashion November 1815

Morning Gown Ackermann's November1815

A FRENCH jacket and petticoat composed of fine cambric muslin; 

the petticoat of full walking length, is ornamented at the feet with a broad border of the French work let in, and the fullness of the skirt carried partially round the waist; 

the jacket, rounded in front, has a broad cape to correspond, and is trimmed entirely round with French work corresponding with the petticoat; a long bishop sleeve, with French work let in at the wrist. 

A French mob cap composed of satin and quilled lace. Slippers, coloured kerseymere. Gloves, York tan.

Not one of my favourites. Perhaps it is the way the jacket looks, however I am pleased to see it called a jacket interestingly enough. And bishop sleeves are different.

Until Next time

Regency Fashion - November 1814

This is a half dress, something to wear around the house when not expecting company?  It is the apron that makes me think this, though the whole thing is pretty glam.

And more stripes, as we saw in the last gown for this month in this year.

From Ackermann's Repository the description is as follows:

Green satin striped sarsnet frock, ornamented round the bottom with a rich border, embroidered with shaded chenille; long full sleeve, confined at the wrist, and trimmed with Vandyke lace. 

A bodice and apron made of clear muslin, trimmed entirely round with Vandyke lace, and headed with a double row of white satin ribband; falling collar, trimmed to correspond. 

Cap composed of blond lace and satin tied under the chin with a silk cord and tassel.

 Neck-chain and heart of Oriental gold. 

Gloves, Limerick or French kid. Sandals of striped kid.

I love the way this model looks in this cap, but I have the feeling it would not suit everyone, ie me. A bit too floppy.

Until next time.

Regency Fashion November 1814

From Ackermann's Repository

Now I am not sure about your idea, but this looks far from warm. Nor do I much like the Vandyke French ruff. What do you think?

Walking Dress

An Italian striped sarsnet lilac-coloured dress, ornamented round the bottom with a double quilling of satin ribband; short full sleeve, trimmed to correspond; the fronts of the dress cross the bosom and form an open stomacher; a Vandyke French ruff, and full bordered cap to correspond.

The satin straw hat, tied under the chin with a check or striped Barcelona handkerchief, crossing the crown with a small plume of ostrich feathers in the front. 

French shawl, a white twill, embroidered with shaded scarlet and green silks, and fancifully disposed on the figure.

 Gloves, Limerick of York tan, drawn over the elbow. Half-boots of York tan or pale buff kid.

Until next time

Regency Fashion ~ November 1813

Two gowns are pictured together for this month.

The Morning Dress is described as follows:

 round dress, of jacconet muslin made up to the throat and buttoned down the back, which is still broader than they were worn last month; the waist is also a little, but it is a very little shorter than they were then. Long sleeve, which falls much off the shoulder; it is very large and loose and fastens tightly at the wrists by a letting in of lace; the sleeve descends almost to the fingers and is edged with lace The trimming of this dress is extremely elegant a very broad flounce of the same materials as the dress, is surmounted by a richly embroidery in coloured silks, and a sligh border, the pattern a wave, goes round it at bottom.  Treble ruff of pointed lace.  Hair cropped behind, and dressed in loose full curls in front.  Ear-rings of dead gold in shape of a heart; they are very small.  Slippers of slate-coloured kid made much higher round the instep than they have been worn for some time, and trimmed with a ribband to correspond.

The Dinner Dress is a frock of Devonshire brown crape, made to display the back, bosom, and shoulders as much as possible.  This exquisitely simple and becoming dress leaves us little to describe: in the form of the frock there is nothing new, but the trimming, which is of white satin is very novel and tasteful.  It is laid on in folds, which are separated into small compartments by strings of real pearls. The sleeve, which is of white satin corresponds with the flounce.  Hair partly twisted up behind, partly descending in loose ringlets on the back of the neck; the forehead shaded by a few loose and beautiful ringlets; a wreath of half-blown roses is put on rather to one side, and the whole air of the head is as youthful as possible. Pearl necklace, earrings and bracelets. White kid slippers with silver rosettes. A rich scarf of lemon colour shot with lilac is occasionally thrown over the shoulders; and a ridicule with silver clasps and tassels, finishes the dress.

We often have questions about the fastenings of gowns. Laces or buttons. The morning gown is buttoned down the back, so there we have it at least for this particular year.   I can't say I'm a fan of brown for a dinner dress, or of the novel trimming, but I was interested to see that it is shown as above the ankle.

Until next time

Regency Fashion for November

by Michele Ann Young
I can't quite believe how quickly things are rushing by.  Almost time for another newsletter, so if you haven't signed up, do so waaay at the bottom of the blog.

From the November 1809Ladies Monthly Museum
 Walking Dress
A short petticoat and vest of fine cambric of India muslin, made whole in front, and laced up behind; it is finished with a collar, edged with rich antique lace: the dress is bordered with a colored or worked border. A bonnet of amber velvet or satin, with a small front, and tassels on each side. Roman cloak of purple velvet, and with amber sarcenet: the cloak is ornamented with a gold trimming, and fastened on the right shoulder with a broach or clasp. Purple shoes or half boots.

 Full Dress
 A dress composed of lacenett, spotted or worked in stripes: --a white satin body and petticoat; the front made high and square, and worked in chenille; sleeves of entire lace. Headdress, a lace handkerchief or hood, ornamented in front with two ostrich feathers. Necklace of gold chain, with cornelian clasp: earings to correspond: white shoes and gloves.

I love the idea of the Roman cloak of purple and the amber bonnet.

Next week we will be back to our tour of Regency London. Until then Happy Rambles.

Fashion For November

by Michele Ann Young

The last of the leaves are sitting in brown bags at the curb and I must say I now really feel as if winter is just around the corner. I can remember Novembers in England as a child, the nights drawing in, the smell of coal fires in the fog. In fact, it was more than a smell, it was a taste on your tongue. And chilblains. And chapped knees that would only get worse as winter went on, since girls never wore pants. We were not allowed to wear trousers, even in the depths of winter, even right through high school. I used to wear pantyhose and socks over the top, and that was a no no, too.

Ah, those were the days.

I think I would have done anything for a nice long frock like the ones pictured here.

Aren't they glam?

These are from the Lady's Monthly Museum for November 1806

The first is a Walking Dress

"Nankeen Pelisse, border of White Lace; Straw Gipsy Hat ornamented with a Wreath of white Flowers, and Bow of Ribbons on one side; Swansdown Tippet."

Interesting the use of Nankeen for a pellisse. We often see it as little boy's trousers, or for working men. It was a durable fabric originally loomed by hand in China from natural cotton having a yellowish color.

The second gown is of course the one we all want to wear, provided we have a sylph-like figure. Sigh - those were the days.

Full Dress

Round dress of pink or brown Silk Gauze, fastened up on one side with white Silk cord; Turban sleeves, lined and trimmed up with white Silk; Head fashionably dressed with a Plume of small Feathers, fastened with a sprig of Pearls; White tied Gloves, and Swansdown Muff.

Very pretty. A round gown refers to the construction of the dress. It simply means the gown does not open at the front and show the petticoat, as was common earlier in the previous century.

That is is from me, until next time, Happy Rambles

Regency Fashion For November

We put our clocks back an hour this past weekend. How very parsimonious of us to save an hour a day, Jane Austen might say. Sadly the early rising of today, will soon slip away. It was nice not to get up in the dark, I must say, but I do find the shorter days and dark evenings a gloomy herald to winter.

Which of course takes us to fashions for November. I have a couple of gems for you today, which I hope you will enjoy.

This one is and evening gown from Ackerman's Repository 1813.

A round robe of blossom-coloured crape, with demi-train, worn over a white satin slip, gather frock back and stomacher front; the sleeve unusually short, and back and bosom uncommonly (not to say unbecomingly) exposed. The sleeves and neck of the robe ornamented with puckered white satin, and a fancy border round the bottom composed of white satin and crape, the same as the dress; belt of the same round the bottom of the waist, confined with a pearl, or other appropriate clasp, in front. The hair in irregular curls, divided in front, and confined on the crown of the head with white beads and blended with small autumnal flowers of various hues. Necklace, a single row of pearl or the satin bead; a small elastic chain of Oriental gold, from which is suspended a large convent cross of diamonds. Earrings and bracelets of pearl, with diamond studs. French kid gloves, below the elbow. Slipper of white satin, decorated round the instep with silver fringe. Indian fan of carved ivory.

The level of detail in this description from the hair to the the indian fan are a writer's dream. Even using some of these details would bring an outfit to life. Note the blossom-coloured gown. Now what color is blossom? Clearly for this picture a soft pink. It sounds pretty.

This next gown, a walking gown, is also from Ackerman's Repository and is from November 1814, a year later.

An Italian striped sarsnet lilac-coloured dress, ornamented round the bottom with a double quilling of satin ribband; short full sleeve, trimmed to correspond; the fronts of the dress cross the bosom and form an open stomacher; a Vandyke French ruff, and full bordered cap to correspond. The satin straw hat, tied under the chin with a check or striped Barcelona handkerchief, crossing the crown with a small plume of ostrich feathers in front. French shawl, a white twill, embroidered with shaded scarlet and green silks, and fancifully disposed on the figure. Gloves, Limerick or York tan, drawn over the elbow. Half-boots of York tan or pale buff kid.

I find this one fascinating. Not because I like it, because actually I don't, but because there is so much frill going on. The Vandyke French ruff and the bonnet just don't make me want to rush out and buy it, but again the detailed descriptions are wonderfully helpful. Do you think it would be warm enough for blustery November? Even the shawl looks a little on the thin side.

Hope you enjoyed our usual beginning of the month feature and are looking forward to flora and fauna next time. The Lady Flees Her Lord is now available on Amazon and hopefully at a store near you.

Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashions for November

In the Regency, just like now, the nights were drawing in, as we say in England. This really means the sun was rising and setting early in the evening. And of course, the temperatures were dropping. So just what sort of fashions were they promoting for these cooler months.

This one is from November 1814 La Belle Assemblee. Short pelisse of deep lilac, shot with white; and on each hip a Spanish button. It is made with a collar up to the throat, and trimmed round with rich fur; sleeves long and loose, with a fur at bottom to form a cuff, rather shorter in front than behind, and two Spanish buttons are placed just at the bottom of the pelisse in front, which fastens with a loop crossing from one to the other. The bosom is ornamented in the same manner; a belt of embroidered ribband round the waist, and a gold clasp in front. A bonnet of the same materials as the pelisse, crown a helmet shape, front very small, and a wreath of laurel round it; three white feathers are placed at the back of the bonnet, and fall over the front; broad ribband, same as the bonnet, is pinned plain under the chin. The hair is brought very low at the sides, and a single curl on the forehead. Buff gloves, and dark brown kid boots. Large silver bear muff."

Quite lovely and it looks reasonably warm.

These on the other hand, from Ackerman's Repository look like they would only be worn indoors although one is labelled "walking".Walking Dress [standing]— Robe of White Indian muslin, with Spanish vest and Flemish skirt, ornamented at the bottom, bosom, and sleeves with needlework, or appliquéd lace; antique cuffs, pointed collar, fastened in the center of the throat with a topaz broach. Bonnet á la Mary Queen of Scots, composed of intertwined crape and straw, and lined throughout with rose-coloured sarsnet; the extremity of the crown finished with Vandyke scallops in white satin, the edges terminated with straw; a small bouquet of autumnal flowers in front, blended with bows of white satin ribbon, and tied under the chin with the same. French tippet of leopard skin shag. Shoes and gloves of rose-coloured kid. Now bonnet a la Mary Queen of Scots sounds interesting.
Morning Dress [seated] — A plain muslin round gown with long sleeves, and embroidered habit shirt; short sleeves over, composed of alternate lace and muslin; habit shirt trimmed round the throat with a deep lace. Muslin spencer jacket without sleeves, very short, trimmed round the arm-holes, bosom, and waist with lace. A helmet cap, formed of alternate lace and stripes of embroidery; finished on the crown with a square of lace, edged with beading; in the front, full quillings, or gathered lace, formed in a sort of turban; the cap tied under the chin with white ribbon. Gloves and shoes of buff-coloured kid.

It seems to me that it would require a balmy day to be abroad in these two outfits, unless you are promenading around your drawing room. Which is something we see in Pride and Predjudice, the two ladies walking and talking as around the room, while others look on. How constraining that must have felt.

By the way I will be at Chapters, Scarborough (Kennedy Commons), signing No Regrets. Yes, indeed, it is on the shelf. If you are out and about on Saturday, do drop in and say hello.

Until next time, Happy Rambles.