Regency Fashion

January 1812. We are still in the first year of the Regency and here is what the ladies were wearing in January.

Lady’s Monthly Museum
Cabinet of Fashion

A plain muslin dress, made high to fit the bosom with a plaited ruff; the front of the dress confined with coral clasps; earrings and necklace to correspond. Hungarian mantle, with double capes, trimmed with white swansdown, and fixed at the throat with cord and tassels. A small eastern turban, the same colour as the mantle, with white feathers; buff gloves and shoes.

I really like the modesty of this first gown. It has an elegance about it that appeals to me. And the ruff is very Elizabethan/Tudor. Note the hairstyle. She is sporting one, which always appeals to me, the long tress or curl coming over one shoulder.

The second figure is:

A riding dress of fine Georgian cloth, of a green colour, ornamented with frogs militarie in front and finished at the pocket holes with the same. Hat of green velvet, trimmed with white fur. Buff boots and gloves.

Pocket holes, an interesting way to describe them. I always like the idea of military styled riding dresses for ladies, but this view shows the train to perfection. This would ensure the lady's legs are well covered once she is sideways on the horse. I don't know what Georgian cloth is, do you?

So here we see what the ladies were wearing as we approach the end of the first year of the Regency.

Until next time, Happy Rambles

Regency Fashion 1811

What were they wearing in the summer of the first year of the Regency?


 Here we have three gowns from June and July 1811.  The first two are walking dresses and the last an opera dress.  All show the classic regency lines.

Here are the general observations for July 1811 printed in the June edition of  La Belle Assemblee:

Muslin pelisses, lined with pink, blue, or yellow sarsnet, are still very prevailing, as are spensers of like colours; lace scarfs alone seem to have the preference, either in black or white lace; mantlets are by no means considered as inelegant. Satin tippets, trimmed with lace, are very becoming to a light figure. White satin spensers, mantles, and pelisses are in a high degree of estimation. Small caps formed of brocaded ribband, finished with a long rosette in front, edged with lace pearls; or in the long Mango shape, intersected with white gymp, with a cord and tassels suspended from one side; and caps in every fanciful intermixture of satin or ribband, ornamented with ostrich feathers; they are made flat on the head, raised from the forehead, and in the long Grecian shape.
    Flowers were not at all worn at the Prince’s Fete,  cords and tassels terminated the draperies, and gave an air of graceful negligence to the figure; feathers were universal, much of the Spanish costume prevailed; the sleeves were worn very short, the bosoms very low, the backs rather high, trains of a moderate length. The tunic in crape or lace, embroidered in silver, was displayed upon almost every female of rank and taste; this form of dress will of course descend to the morning habit, and will doubtless relieve the stomacher of much of that formal appearance which at present distinguishes it, and the effect will be extremely graceful. All lace worn on this magnificent occasion was of the manufacture of this country, a noble example, which we hope will be universally followed in all ranks of life. Honiton lace, as most resembling Brussel’s point, held the preference.
    The ornaments in jewellry were either of diamonds, pearls, rubies, sapphires, or emeralds.
    The prevailing colours, pink, blue, yellow, and buff.

Until next time, Happy rambles

Regency Fashion 1811

Portrait of the Mlles. Mollien by Rouget, 1811

Ah yes, it is fashion day.   

A Ball Gown ~ April 1811
A white sarsenet or satin petticoat, with short sleeves, over which is worn a body and drapery of light-blue gauze, formed in three points, or vandykes over the petticoat, reaching nearly to the bottom, the ends finished with white silk tassels. It is crossed over the figure in fronts towards the left side, and fastened in tufts of bows of the same colour. A short sash tied in a bow on the left side. Sleeves looped up in front of the arm. The bottom of the petticoat is trimmed in vandykes to correspond. White silk stockings and blue kid shoes.The hair twisted up behind and redressed in full curls, ornamented with a bandeau of light blue twisted crape and roses. White kid gloves. 

And in Paris they were wearing Cashmere Shawls

This one in pink has an amazingly low neck line and the lady carries another shawl in white.

Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion 1811

I didn't do a fashion post this month and we are celebrating 200 years since the Regency. Well, we can't have that can we.  Here are some more 1811 Regency Fashions.

This is a Morning Carriage dress from La Belle Assemblee for March 1811

The description is as follows:

A bias corded muslin dress, a walking length, with long sleeves, made high in the neck, with collar; buttoned down the front of the waist with narrow lilac satin ribband. Sash tied in a bow in front; a border of plain muslin, or lace, round the bottom. A square of lilac satin, with richly embroidered border in white silk, and tassels to correspond, is thrown over the shoulders in the form of a shawl, and is cut down the back to give it a more easy and graceful appearance about the figure. A simple white chip hat, tied round the crown in a bow in front of lilac satin ribband. The hair in full curls over the forehead. Pearl earrings. Gloves and shoes of pale lemon, or lilac coloured kid.

It is interesting isn't it, that they not only describe the dress but that they specify the accessories right down to the hairstyles. The earrings look to be quite large.

Some General Observations:

For these you will have to use your imagination, but they offer a clue as to what was deemed in style by La Belle Assemblee for this particular month.

Pelisses and mantles have undergone no variation since our last communications. A mantle of very pale fawn colour Merino cloth, with large hood, lined with pink silk, worn with a Highland cap of the same material, ornamented with two small flat ostrich feathers of the same colour, is a most becoming dress to a fair complexion. We have observed several in very dark green, lined with pink or orange, with straw cottage bonnets trimmed with velvet flowers or shaded ostrich feathers. Pelisses are made to fit tight to the shape without a band, with a broad trimming of sable or of the Nootka Sound otter. They are mostly made in velvet of the colour of rubies, garnet, royal purple or puce; some are ornamented round the bottom with a very broad embossed figured ribband.

    Morning dresses are still made in plain cambric, with oblong spots or sprigs of lace let in on the bosom and sleeves. Small lace caps tied down with coloured silk or gause handkerchiefs, ornamented in front with a demi-tiara of fancy flowers, or a knot of pinks or ranunculus. Gloves and shoes of corresponding colours.

    Dinner, or home dresses, are mostly composed of stuff, cloth or velvet, embroidered or trimmed with gold, with long sleeves and moderate trains; either high in the neck with a falling collar of worked muslin, or full twill of lace, or just above the rise of the bosom with a white crape habit-shirt or standing frill of lace plain round the neck. Velvet Turkish caps, gold bands, and spangled nets, are much worn on the head.

    Bands in every species of jewelry are now the prevailing ornaments for the head; they are worn low over the face, with a diamond or other open work, clasp or loop in the center of the forehead. The hair curled on each side in ringlets, the hind hair brought forward, and disposed so as to fall over the left side of the face.

    No variety has taken place in shoes; they are still embroidered in gold or silver, in the device of a star.

    In respect to the jewelry, the greatest novelty is the band for the head; they are formed of two rows of coloured stones or pearls fastened to an ornament in the center. Girdles in coloured gems distinguish the women of fashion. Earrings are made in the top and drop fashion. Brooches in the form of sprigs or flowers, with gems of appropriate hues.

    The prevailing colours for the season are ruby, garnet, puce, purple, orange, grass-green, and coquelicot.

Nice range of colours there and some interesting headgear.

Until next time Happy Rambles through the Regency

Regency Fashion 1811

Fashion like a good way to mark the beginning of the Regency.  The first article talks about fashion in general, then we have some descriptions of specific plates.

General Observations on Fashion and Dress, March 1811 from the February 1811 La Belle Assemblee

The mourning for the late Princess Amelia expired on the 11th of last month, but though not general, the Court continued it in a slight degree for the deceased Queen of France. Sables are at length, however, entirely laid aside, and notwithstanding the season of Lent is not usually distinguished by much of variety, gloom seems to have subsided and gaiety and fashion fast entering on spring.
For the promenade, scarlet mantles have been so general during the mourning, that for mere variety they must now be laid aside, we think they are more frequently succeeded by the short pelisse of purple velvet, trimmed with broad black lace, or small cottage mantlet, lined with white sarsnet, ornamented with white chenille or gold. Purple sarsnet pelisses, or black velvet, lined with colours, are equally approved.
Cottage bonnets, cloth turbans, or small velvet caps, and one long dropping ostrich feather, or two small ones, are more prevailing; under the cottage bonnets, which are formed to set off from the face, small lace caps, rosettes of lace or ribband, or small flowers are much worn, with a deep blue French veil thrown over. Purple, black, or scarlet boots, are universal for walking.
For morning dress, short pelisses of cambric corded muslin, over a slip of the same, trimmed with edging, or made in poplin, bombazeen, or lustres, with ruffs and cuffs of fine clear muslin, with bands of the same, and clasps of lope de perle. 

Dinner dresses are most worn in lustres, sarsnets, Opera nets, or cloth, made up to the throat with lace cuffs, collars, and small French aprons of lace or fine embroidered muslin; and lace or quilted satin tippets, trimmed with swansdown, or white chenille.  

The full dress, black or white lace over coloured or white satin slips, ornamented with gold, still continue the most admired, with pearl necklaces, combs, and other ornaments blended with emeralds.—Small tippets in antique lace or satin trimmed with swansdown, are considered indispensable, and small aprons of rich antique embroidered muslin with full pockets drawn and ornamented with white satin ribband, have an exceedingly elegant, and novel effect, and are much to be preferred to the ridicule so long in vogue.
For the Opera, blue or white satin, short pelisses, trimmed with dead silver or gold, with massy gold chains and bracelets, brooched with emeralds or amethysts, and crosses to correspond; and gold or silver bands or nets for the hair, which is dressed in full, large, round curls over the face, and divided on one side by a diamond, pearl, or ornamented comb. 

Hair knots are just introduced, in embroidered lace, with gold or silver thread, forming a light rosette, to be disposed among the hair according to fancy.

 Fashion for February 1811 from January 1811 La Belle Assemblee

Walking Dress    A pelisse of scarlet Merino cloth, buttoned down the front and up the arm with small gold buttons; the collar and cuffs of purple velvet; but during the mourning, of black, striped with scarlet; an empire tippet pointed in the back, and muffs of the same. A bonnet of scarlet cloth, turned up with velvet and formed to come over the face; the veil passed through the front, and brought round the neck. Boots of scarlet cloth trimmed with velvet.
Evening Full Dress.   A round dress of white satin, sloped up in front; with small train ornamented round the bottom with velvet in a scroll pattern, vandyked at the edges, and dotted with black chenille; the velvet during the mourning should be grey or scarlet; the bosom, girdle, and sleeves of this dress are ornamented to correspond, in the form exhibited in the plate. A turban cap of white satin, looped with pearls, and edged with velvet; the hair combed full over the face, curled in thick flat curls, divided on the forehead. Necklace, earrings, and bracelets of gold and pearls blended. White kid shoes and gloves; fan of white crape and gold.

These February 1811 gowns will be our bench mark for how the rest of the time period plays out in terms of fashion.

Until next time, Happy Rambles