Regency Fashion December 1814

Every now and then Ackermann's Repository gives us a post of fashionable bonnets and lucky for us they have given us one for December 1814 to finish out what has been a fun year of fashion.

I must say none of these hats look particularly Christmassy to me, but I would like to know which one you would be wearing out on Christmas Day?

Here are the descriptions:

A full turban made either in tiffany or silver net; the crown lashed with silk or silver cords.

A melon cap, made of white satin quilted, with narrow bead trimming inlet, ornamented with a full cluster and wreath of flowers, blended with a quilled border of lace.

Persian calash, formed upon a wire fabric, and composed of satin-striped ribband, trimmed with a full border of blond lace, appliqued with a heading of Vandyke: a net handkerchief crosses the crown en suite, with a large cluster of wild flowers in the centre.

A cottage bonnet, made in salmon colour and white velvets, ornamented with a double plume of ostrich feathers.

A Russian a-la-mode, composed of orange and white velvets, trimmed round the edge with a quilling of Vandyke lace: the crown decorated with flowers and wreaths of Vandyke lace.

Untile Next time…….

Regency Fashion December 1814

Snow here today.  Others in the house were up and shovelling at 5am. It is a very pretty day and worth a fashion picture.

From the Lady's Magazine for December 1814

Morning Walking Dress.

A round dress of grey or stone colored French silk figured with small flowers or springs of the same, made high on the neck with a frill plating of ribbon of the same colour; the bosom open, the sleeves long, divided at several distances, with tufts of floss silk, the skirt rather short with a trimming of ribbon to correspond with the neck.

Mantle the color of the dress, or scarlet made square, with lapel collar trimmed with a broad border or ribbon, of the same colour.

Bonnet of black silk velvet, made high in the crown with full poke front, figured with tufts of let-in ribbon, of scarlet, or yellow, or variegated; a cluster of coloured flowers on one side with trimming of variegated ribbon.—The hair in full curls, in front and sides, with cap of thread lace,--an occasional handkerchief of variegated French silk.—Gloves of York tan—Half boots of coloured jean.

Personally I am not having a good time matching the description to the picture, nor am I rushing out to buy this one, but there we have it. Until next time.

Regency Fashion December 1814

Here we have a dress in the much despised puce of Georgette Heyer, a sort of brownish, reddish, purplish colour.  I can't say I am that keen on the style either, but here is the original descriptions

Walking Dress from Ackermann's Repository



A pelisse of short walking length, made either in erminette or silk velvet of puce colour, open down the front, and bound entirely round with celestial blue satin, terminating at the feet with a broad border of white lace.

 A high plain collar and treble copes [capes] bound to correspond; full lace ruff.

The Spanish hat composed of erminette or velvet and blue satin, corresponding to the pelisse, trimmed round the edge with quilling lace and ornamented in the front with a plume of ostrich feathers.

Half boots, blue kid or erminette. Gloves, Limerick or York tan.

Until next time....

Regency Fashion - November 1814

This is a half dress, something to wear around the house when not expecting company?  It is the apron that makes me think this, though the whole thing is pretty glam.

And more stripes, as we saw in the last gown for this month in this year.

From Ackermann's Repository the description is as follows:

Green satin striped sarsnet frock, ornamented round the bottom with a rich border, embroidered with shaded chenille; long full sleeve, confined at the wrist, and trimmed with Vandyke lace. 

A bodice and apron made of clear muslin, trimmed entirely round with Vandyke lace, and headed with a double row of white satin ribband; falling collar, trimmed to correspond. 

Cap composed of blond lace and satin tied under the chin with a silk cord and tassel.

 Neck-chain and heart of Oriental gold. 

Gloves, Limerick or French kid. Sandals of striped kid.

I love the way this model looks in this cap, but I have the feeling it would not suit everyone, ie me. A bit too floppy.

Until next time.

Regency Fashion November 1814

From Ackermann's Repository

Now I am not sure about your idea, but this looks far from warm. Nor do I much like the Vandyke French ruff. What do you think?

Walking Dress

An Italian striped sarsnet lilac-coloured dress, ornamented round the bottom with a double quilling of satin ribband; short full sleeve, trimmed to correspond; the fronts of the dress cross the bosom and form an open stomacher; a Vandyke French ruff, and full bordered cap to correspond.

The satin straw hat, tied under the chin with a check or striped Barcelona handkerchief, crossing the crown with a small plume of ostrich feathers in the front. 

French shawl, a white twill, embroidered with shaded scarlet and green silks, and fancifully disposed on the figure.

 Gloves, Limerick of York tan, drawn over the elbow. Half-boots of York tan or pale buff kid.

Until next time

Regency Fashion October 1814

October is clearly the month for walking at Ackermann's

An evening primrose-coloured French sarsnet petticoat, trimmed round the bottom with a double border of clear muslin, drawn full with a narrow ribband of corresponding colour to the petticoat; high body of jaconot muslin, with reversed drawings; long sleeve, drawn to correspond. A silk ruff.

 A silk net handkerchief-sash, tied in streamers and small bows behind.

A Shipton straw bonnet, tied under the chin with a net handkerchief crossing the crown, and trimmed with a band of the same silk net.

Sandals of evening primrose-coloured kid. Gloves to correspond.

Very smart. And more sandals.


Until next time

Regency Fashion - October 1814

From Ackermann's Repository October 1814

PROMENADE DRESS.

            

 A CELESTIAL blue or French grey silk skirt, buttoned and trimmed down the front with a full border of lace, gathered on a plain heading, terminating at the bottom with a deep flounce of the same; high-drawn body, made either of sarsnet or India muslin; long full sleeve, confined at the wrist by a bracelet of blue satin bead and emerald clasp. Lace ruff round the neck. 

A net handkerchief crossed over the bosom and tied in bows behind. 

Full-bordered lace cap, ornamented with a small wreath of flowers on one side. 

A French straw bonnet, lined with white sarsnet, and trimmed round the edge with a narrow quilling of net lace; a small plume of ostrich feathers in the centre of the crown. Sandals of blue kid. Gloves, York tan or Limerick.

Sandals in October. A bit nippy on the toes I must say. And what is the idea of the handkerchief? Support?

Until Next Time......

Regency Fashion - September 1814

Here we have the rather unusual back view.  Nice that we get the full glory of the hairstyle in this one.

Evening Half-gown from Ackermann's Repository

A plain frock, with full drawn back, composed of striped sarsnet Italian net of peach-blossom colour; full flounce of blond lace, headed with tufts of the same; a quilling of blond round the top of the dress; long full sleeve of white satin, inlet with lace. 

Hair in short full curls behind, and blended with flowers on the front of the head. Slippers of white kid. Limerick gloves.

I really like the sleeves on this gown. I believe the clue to the colour is the fact that it tries to represent the idea of a net over the fabric of the dress, because to me it doesn't say peach-blossom.

Until next time.....

Regency Fashion August 1814

Hot days of summer here in the Northern hemisphere.  What are you wearing at the beach?

I bet it looks nothing like this.  Our ladies of 200 years ago might have had the prettiest ballgowns, but I bet you wouldn't swap your bathing suit for this one. Though to be honest it is  a walking dress too.  I liked seeing the cliffs in the background and the bathing machines lined up on the beach. And that must be a towel over her arm.

Reminds me a bit of a scene in my next book Captured Countess out in December.  Our heroine, Nicky, is learning to swim -- with the King.

All right, here is the official description. But I am not sure what Carcassian refers too? Circassians perhaps?

From La Belle Assemblee:

Carcassian Ladies’ Corset Bathing & Sea-side Walking Dress 

High dress of rich Indian or Parisian chintz, made in a form peculiarly novel and elegant; it is trimmed with chintz bordering to correspond, or a rich silk trimming. Long sleeve, with the fullness let in at the top. The collar is extremely novel and beautiful, and the trimming most tastefully disposed, so as to give the appearance of a shirt to the pelisse; it is loose in the body, but fastens in to the waist.  

We forbear a particular description of this elegant and convenient dress, as it must be seen to be properly understood; we have only to observe, that it is made in a form never before introduced, that it is equally tasteful and becoming; it enables a lady to dress herself in a few minutes without assistance, prevents the chance of taking cold by the long delay in dressing; and, when dressed, to look as completely fashionable as if she had employed the longest time at her toilet.  

The principal novelty, however, consists of Mrs. Bell’s new invented Circassian corset, which unites the advantages of being conductive to health and comfort, by being made of novel materials, free from superfluities, such as steel, whalebone, or any hard substance; so that ease, gracefulness, and dignity are given to the female form in a manner perfectly novel and original. It gives relief and protection to pregnant ladies, and at the same time adds dignity and beauty to the appearance.  

Head dress Chapeau Bras. Slippers of pale green; and gloves to correspond.

Now some of you may be interested in the comment on the corset.  Novel materials. One can only wonder. And the fact that she can dress herself after bathing means this outer shell comes off before she takes a dip leaving her in that corset and her chemise?

Until next time

Regency Fashion ~ July 1814

Nothing like a party dress to put a girl in a good mood, don't you think?  This is one of the prettiest I've put up for a while.  I can definitely see one of my heroines wearing this out to dinner.

Oldenburgh Dinner Dress from the July 1814 LBA

French white satin slip, decorated round the bottom with a rich blond lace, and headed with a superb pearl trimming: a wreath of laurel leaves formed of pearls, in an angle in the front of the slip. 

The trimming is perfectly novel, and the effect of it is more elegant than can be conceived from the engraving which we have given. Over the slip is a short Russian robe of white crape, open front, edged round with a rich pearl trimming to correspond with the slip; the wreaths which ornament the robe is formed of pearls also, to correspond. 

The front of the dress is formed in a most novel and tasteful style, peculiar to the inventress, Mrs. Bell. The back continues full, and the waist very short. Crape long sleeve, trimmed with pearl bands at regular distances. 

Small lace cap, superbly decorated with pearls, and finished with tassels to correspond; a fancy flower is placed to the side. The form of this cap is extremely elegant, exquisitely tasteful, and becoming.

 A white satin Chapeau Bras, ornamented with a spread eagle on the crown, worked in chenille, is indispensable. 

The hair is worn up a-la-Grecque on the left side, where it is fastened in a full knot. Gloves and slippers of white kid. Plain ivory fan.

Until next time:

Regency Fashion May 1814

Bourbon Hat and Mantle.

Frock of the finest jacconet muslin, embroidered round the bottom in fleurs de lis; the waist of the dress is the same length as last month, but the bosom and shoulders are not quite so much exposed; the bosom is ornamented with embroidery to correspond with the train. The back is full, and a narrow white satin sash is tied in long bows and ends behind. Three very small white silk fleur de lis ornament the dress in front of the bosom. Plain long sleeve. 

The Bourbon mantle of azure crape worn with this dress is remarkably novel and elegant; it is ornamented behind with white satin, which forms the back in a manner perfectly original and singularly tasteful; the crape is cut at each side of the back in points, as is also the front; each point is ornamented with fleurs de lis and rich tasssels; the mantle is edged round with narrow byas white satin, and finished at the edge by a very light and elegant trimming, which we understand was invented expressly for it. A small byas white satin collar which falls over, is fastened in front with a pearl brooch, and edged with trimming to correspond. 

The Bourbon Hat, patronized we understand by the Duchess d’Angouleme, is truly elegant, and admirably adapted to the season; it is in fact, a most novel and tasteful emblem of royalty; its form, which is peculiar, has never before been introduced, and it is decorated in a style of novelty, simplicity, and elegance; nor is it its least recommendation that it is completely portable, as it may be packed even in a portmanteau in scarcely any space, without its being in the least degree injured. 

For the form of this attractive hat, we refer our readers to the Plate; the materials of which it is composed are azure satin, and fleurs de lis, with which it is ornamented in front, are composed of pearl; a light and beautiful trimming of floss silk intermixed with pearl, goes round the edge of the hat, and an ostrich feather is tastefully placed to the side. Parasol, gloves, slippers, and Bourbon ridicule to correspond.

A hat that travels well in a portmanteau is a must, I should assume. The Bourbon star was on the rise with Bonaparte signing the Treaty of Fontainebleau on April 13 1814 and agreed to his exile on Elba.

Naturally this momentous occasion warranted a complete outfit in honour of the Bourbons who were to be returned to their rightful throne.

Regency Fashion April 1814

This Morning Dress pairs with the previous plate.

Also from Ackermann's Repository for April 1814

A petticoat and bodice of fine jaconot muslin, finished round the bottom in vandykes and small buttons.

 The Rochelle spencer is composed of the same material, appliqued with footing lace down the sleeve, and trimmed at the edge with a narrow but full border of muslin. Double fan frill of muslin round the neck, very full, continuing round the bottom of the waist, where it is gathered on a beading of needle-work.

Bourdeaux mob cap, composed of lace, with treble full borders, narrowed under the chin. A small flower placed backward, on the left side. Hair much divided in front, and in full waved curls on each side. Necklace of twisted gold and pearl, with pendent cross in the centre.

Spring Greek kid slippers; and gloves of the same.
 
The beautiful cloak given in our last Number, as well as both the dresses in this, are from Mrs. Gill, of Cork-street, to whose taste and invention this work as well as the world of fashion are under continued obligation.

Until next time

Regency Fashion April 1814

The first of our fashion plates for this month is a Promenade Dress. It makes sense that we are starting to think about walking in Spring.

This is from Ackermann's for April and the description is as follows.

A fine cambric round robe, with high bodice and long sleeves, not so full as of late; embroidered stomacher front and high collar, trimmed with muslin or lace; a Tuscan border of needle-work at the feet.

 A Cossack mantle of pale ruby, or blossom-coloured velvet, lined with white sarsnet, and trimmed entirely round with a broad skin of light sable, ermine, seal, or the American squirrel; a short tippet of the same; the mantle confined at the throat with a rich correspondent silk cord and tassels, very long.

A mountain hat of velvet, the colour of the mantle, finished round the verge with a narrow Vandyke trimming: a small flower placed in the hair beneath, on the left side.

Half-boots the colour of the mantle; and gloves of primrose kid or pale tan.




I thought this quite pretty. And I was interested in the term, mountain hat and the use of American squirrel.


Until next time.....

Regency Fashion March 1814

This is an evening dress designed to be worn during a period of mourning.

The description from La Belle Assemblee for March 1814 is as follows;

Half dress of French grey crape, over a white satin slip, which is slightly embroidered round the bottom with grey chenille. The half dress is sloped so as to be about a quarter of a yard longer behind than in front, and is richly embroidered in white silk round the bottom, which has a very elegant effect; the body a-la-chemise, is made with a little fullness, and drawn in to the waist by a white satin sash. 

An embroidery to correspond with the bottom goes round the bosom, which is cut very low, and the back of the neck. The sleeves are extremely tasteful; they are composed of grey crape on white satin, and are gauged at a distance of about two inches all down; each gauging is finished with a row of pearl, and two rows of pearl at about two inches distance finish the sleeve at bottom. 

Bonnet of French grey crape, turned up on one side and slouched on the other, ornamented with a very long white feather. White crape fan. Bracelets, necklace, and earrings of pearl. White kid gloves and shoes.

Until next time

Regency Fashion - March 1816

Opera or Walking From La Belle Assemblee

The plate says opera, but the description says walking. I will let you decide, but I'm thinking, well its spring, let us walk to the opera.

Here is the official description:

Round dress of jaconet muslin, made high to the throat, and rather longer in the waist than last month. Long sleeves gauged about the wrists about an inch; the sleeve is left about two inches in length from the gauging, and is edged with a very fine narrow lace. The collar, which is made tight to the neck, is also edged with a lace to correspond. A very rich embroidery goes round the bottom of the dress. 

The Huntley bonnet and scarf, for which we refer our readers to the Plate, have a very elegant effect; they are composed of rich twilled plaid sarsnet; the scarf is three yards in length, it is a straight piece, and is disposed according to the taste of the wearer.

A beautiful Prince's plume ornaments the bonnet. Very pale tan slippers and gloves.

I like the dress, but not so much the plaid, but it would be good for walking.

Until next time

Regency Fashion February 1814

I am squeaking this one in before we hit the end of the month. You may have noticed the pattern. I am trying to give you dresses exactly 200 years old. I have another couple for this month so I am going to put them in later this week, so you have them all. Back to regular scheduling for March.

While the title on the plate says "Dinner Dress"  The description calls it a Carriage Pelisse. I assume the two are not incompatible, and it is a carriage dress one could wear to dinner. It is certainly gorgeous enough to go anywhere and the detail says that each of those little tassels is a tie. Heaven help the poor maid having to do that one up and clearly one wouldn't be removing it when one arrived for dinner.  I love the elegant lines of this gown despite the fussiness of the trim.

Here is the description for your delectation  and delight from La Bell Assemblee January 1814 issue, February Fashions.

Orange Boven Carriage Pelisse

    A pelisse of the most delicate fawn colour Irish poplin, the skirt an easy fullness, the body tight to the shape, very short in the waist, and broad in the back. 

The front, as our readers will see by the Plate, is very elegantly ornamented with white satin points put on at each side of the front; a beautiful white silk trimming edges each point, and white silk tassels of the lightest and most beautiful texture tie the pelisse all down the front.

The sleeve is ornamented in a similar manner on a smaller scale, but without the tassels: the bottom of the pelisse and the cuffs are also ornamented with white satin points, edged with silk trimming to correspond, and on each hip is a very novel and tasteful ornament, about the size of a large Spanish button; it is composed of floss silk, in the form of a shell. 

A ruff of white satin cut in points, encircles the throat; it is supported, we believe, by ribband wire, or something of that sort, as it stands up round the throat, it is edged with a very fine narrow white lace. Head-dress a small Spanish cap of white satin, or fawn coloured velvet, tastefully ornamented with points edged with pearl, and a superb white ostrich feather, which falls to the left side. Fawn colour slippers and gloves. We have no hesitation in saying that this dress is the most elegant and novel that has appeared in the carriage costume for a considerable time.

Elegant and novel. I would have to agree.  Until next time, Happy Rambles

Fashion for February 1814

This is an evening gown from Ackerman's Repository for February 1814, described as an Evening or Dancing

The length clearly allows for some jigging about in those very energetic country dances.

A white crape petticoat, worn over gossamer satin, ornamented at the feet with rows of puckered net, with a centre border of blue satin or velvet, in puffs. 

A bodice of blue satin, with short full sleeves, and cuffs to correspond with the bottom of the dress. A full puckered border of net, or crape round the bosom. 

Stomacher and belt of white satin, with pearl or diamond clasp. 

Hair in disheveled curls, divided in front of the forehead, and ornamented with clusters of small variegated flowers; a large transparent Mechlin veil, thrown occasionally over the head, shading the bosom in front, and falling in graceful drapery beneath. 

Ear-rings, necklace and bracelets of Oriental pearl, or white cornelian.

 Slippers of white satin, with blue rosettes. White kid gloves; and fan of spangled crape and blue foil.

I like the idea of disheveled curls, don't you? 

Until next time......

Fashion for January 2014

Today's offering is a Morning Carriage Dress from the December edition of La Belle Assemblee.

It think this outfit would have been perfect for February too. The description is as follows.

 Pelisse of the fashionable blue cloth, fastened down the front with small flaps, edged with silk trimming to correspond, in a manner that is perfectly novel, and that has a very singular effect; the cuff is also ornamented to correspond. 

A very small cottage bonnet, composed of white satin, and of a most becoming and novel shape; the front, which is very small, displays a rich quilling of lace to correspond with the triple lace ruff.

 The bonnet on the front is ornamented with a white satin ribband, which is so disposed as to have the appearance of a small wreath of white flowers; a white soft ribband ties it in a very full bow under the chin. Cloth half-boots to correspond with the dress. York tan gloves, and a seal-skin muff and tippet, finishes this dress.

Our modern day preferences would no doubt have us omitting the fur accoutrements, but since this is history, we include them.

Until Next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion

January 2014

This is our second fashion plate for the month from Ackerman's Repository.

Morning Dress

A round robe of plain jaconot muslin, with spencer bodice, and rounded falling collar, edged with lace or needle-work; the same ornamenting the bottom of the dress. 

A loose robe pelisse of Indian muslin, thrown quite open in front, trimmed entirely round with a full gathered border of muslin or lace; the back confined at the bottom with a lemon-coloured ribband, brought round the waist, and tied in bows and ends in front. 

The Flushing mop cap, composed entirely of lace, ornamented with lemon-coloured ribband, which also confines it under the chin. A small rosary and cross of amber, twisted round the wrist, and a broach of the same confining the dress at the throat. Slippers and gloves of lemon-coloured kid.






Such a pretty Dress don't you think, and I like the stool and cushion she is perched on. It looks like summer more than winter to me. And a Flushing mob cap. Flushing is the English name for a harbour in the Netherlands, called Vlissingen. In case you wanted to know. Why there is a mob cap named after it, I do not profess to know. But it is very sweet.

That's it until next time, Happy Rambles.