Regency Fashion - December 1816

Interesting, but a little bland for my taste.  What do you think?

Carriage Dress, 1816 Ackermann's

The description is as follows:

A gown of pale faun-colour cloth, made a walking length, and trimmed round the bottom with four rows of rich blue silk trimming. The body, which is cut very low, is ornamented in such a manner as to have a novel appearance, with a similar trimming, but very narrow. 

The back, which  is cut down on each side, is finished at the bottom of the waist by bows and long ends, trimmed to correspond. 

A very tasteful half sleeve over a plain long sleeve, made tight at the wrist, and bound with blue trimming; it is finished by a narrow ruffle composed of three falls of tulle; fichu of tulle, with a ruff to correspond. 

When worn as a carriage dress, the head-dress is a bonnet, the crown composed of white satin at top, and the middle and front of Leghorn; it is lined with white satin, and ornamented only by a white satin band and strings. 

An India shawl is also indispensable to it as a carriage dress, for which hit is elegantly appropriate. Shoes and gloves of pale faun colour.

Our dresses this month are both French; but, as our readers will perceive from our prints, they are in the best style of Parisian costume. We have been favoured with them by a lady who has just returned from Paris.

Now I thought Leghorn was a style, here it is used to describe a material. 

Until Next Time...............

Regency Fashion

December 1816
Promenade Dress

'Tis the Season.

The richness of this gown in the December Ackermann's makes me think of Christmas and warmth.

Here is the description:

A HIGH  dress of cambric muslin trimmed at the bottom with a single flounce of work. 

The body, which is composed entirely of work, fits the shape without any fullness. A plain long sleeve, finished by a triple fall of narrow lace. 

Over this dress is worn the Angouleme pelisse, composed of crimson velvet, lined with white sarsnet, and trimmed with a single welt of crimson satin, a shade lighter than the pelisse. 

The body is made exactly to the shape; the back is of course a moderate breadth, and without fullness: for the form of the front we refer our readers to our print; it is confined at the waist, which is very short, by a narrow velvet band, edged to correspond. A small collar, of a novel and pretty shape, stands up and supports a rich lace ruff, which is worn open in front of the throat. 

The sleeve has very little fullness, and that little is confined at the wrist by three narrow bands of puckered satin. 

Bonnet a la Royale, composed of white satin very tastefully intermixed with a large bunch of fancy flowers, and tied under the chin by a white satin ribbon, which is brought in a bow to the left side; a full quilling of tulle finishes the front. 

Black silk ridicule, exquisitely worked in imitation of the ends of an India shawl, and trimmed with black silk fringe. White kid gloves and black walking shoes.

I was intrigued by the ridicule, because of it's embroidery (described as work) and as you know that is my "thing". We see little of the dress itself, just a peek through the opening in the pelisse.

Until next time.....

Farewell to 1815

Our last fashion blog for the year.

Walking Dress, December 1815

Not my favourite by a long way, despite the glowing recommendation at the end of the description. As always it gives us a voyeuristic sense of the time.

The description is from the Ackermann's December 1815 edition.

Pelisse, of walking length, composed of blue twilled sarsnet, fastened down the front with large bows of white satin ribbon, and ornamented at the feet with a border of leaves formed of the same sarsnet, edged with white satin: 

the bottom of the pelisse, trimmed with white satin, is drawn into small festoons; sleeve ornamented at the shoulder and the hand to correspond; 

a French embroidered ruff. 

A French hat composed of the blue twilled sarsnet, trimmed with white satin edged with blue, and decorated with a large plume of ostrich feathers. 

An Indian shawl of crimson silk, richly embroidered in shaded silks. The pocket-handkerchief French cambric, embroidered at the corners. 

Shoes, blue morocco, tied with bows high upon the instep. Stockings with embroidered clocks. Gloves, York tan.

The silver-striped French gauze is a novel and elegant article, which, fashioned by the ever-varying and approved taste of Mrs. Bean, requires to be viewed, before a just idea can be received of its fascinating effects; it is allowed to be the lightest and most splendid costume ever yet presented by the amateur to the votaries of fashion.

I do hope you all had a very happy Christmas tide, if it is something you celebrate.

I am looking forward to embarking with you on a new year of fashion, travel and books.

Regency Fashion December 1814

Every now and then Ackermann's Repository gives us a post of fashionable bonnets and lucky for us they have given us one for December 1814 to finish out what has been a fun year of fashion.

I must say none of these hats look particularly Christmassy to me, but I would like to know which one you would be wearing out on Christmas Day?

Here are the descriptions:

A full turban made either in tiffany or silver net; the crown lashed with silk or silver cords.

A melon cap, made of white satin quilted, with narrow bead trimming inlet, ornamented with a full cluster and wreath of flowers, blended with a quilled border of lace.

Persian calash, formed upon a wire fabric, and composed of satin-striped ribband, trimmed with a full border of blond lace, appliqued with a heading of Vandyke: a net handkerchief crosses the crown en suite, with a large cluster of wild flowers in the centre.

A cottage bonnet, made in salmon colour and white velvets, ornamented with a double plume of ostrich feathers.

A Russian a-la-mode, composed of orange and white velvets, trimmed round the edge with a quilling of Vandyke lace: the crown decorated with flowers and wreaths of Vandyke lace.

Untile Next time…….

Regency Fashion December 1814

Snow here today.  Others in the house were up and shovelling at 5am. It is a very pretty day and worth a fashion picture.

From the Lady's Magazine for December 1814

Morning Walking Dress.

A round dress of grey or stone colored French silk figured with small flowers or springs of the same, made high on the neck with a frill plating of ribbon of the same colour; the bosom open, the sleeves long, divided at several distances, with tufts of floss silk, the skirt rather short with a trimming of ribbon to correspond with the neck.

Mantle the color of the dress, or scarlet made square, with lapel collar trimmed with a broad border or ribbon, of the same colour.

Bonnet of black silk velvet, made high in the crown with full poke front, figured with tufts of let-in ribbon, of scarlet, or yellow, or variegated; a cluster of coloured flowers on one side with trimming of variegated ribbon.—The hair in full curls, in front and sides, with cap of thread lace,--an occasional handkerchief of variegated French silk.—Gloves of York tan—Half boots of coloured jean.

Personally I am not having a good time matching the description to the picture, nor am I rushing out to buy this one, but there we have it. Until next time.

Regency Fashion December 1814

Here we have a dress in the much despised puce of Georgette Heyer, a sort of brownish, reddish, purplish colour.  I can't say I am that keen on the style either, but here is the original descriptions

Walking Dress from Ackermann's Repository



A pelisse of short walking length, made either in erminette or silk velvet of puce colour, open down the front, and bound entirely round with celestial blue satin, terminating at the feet with a broad border of white lace.

 A high plain collar and treble copes [capes] bound to correspond; full lace ruff.

The Spanish hat composed of erminette or velvet and blue satin, corresponding to the pelisse, trimmed round the edge with quilling lace and ornamented in the front with a plume of ostrich feathers.

Half boots, blue kid or erminette. Gloves, Limerick or York tan.

Until next time....

Regency Fashion

December 1813

The second offering for December, is quite glamerous IMHO

It is named a Kutusoff Mantle

Kutusoff was a Russian Prince and a great general for his country who died earlier in 1813.

The mantle is described as follows;

Pink or scarlet cloth mantle, trimmed with a broad velvet ribband to correspond, a spenser of the same materials, on sleeve of which is concealed by the folds of the mantle; the collar, which is high and puckered, fastens at the throat with a broach; and a long lappel [sic], which ends in a point, falls considerably over the left shoulder.  A Kutusoff hat of pink or scarlet cloth, turned up in front, with a little corner to the right side, ties under the chin, and is finished with aa pink or scarlet feather; a full puffing of lace or net is seen underneath. Plain cambric high dress, and pink or scarlet leather half boots.  Its effect upon a tall and graceful figure is amazingly striking and it is for the carriage costume, decidedly the most elegant cloak that we have seen for some seasons back, and does the greatest credit to the tasteful fancy of its inventress, Miss Powell, successor to Mrs Franklin, Piccadilly.

And so we are offered a couple of interesting tidbits, in particular, the name and location of one of the seamstresses to the ton  in addition to what I agree is a stunning ensemble.

Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion

December 1813

It wouldn't be fair to let a month go by, without a peek at the fashions since I was fortunate enough to purchase La Belle Assemblee for 1813, I have been posting pictures from exactly 200 years ago.

Our Fashionista has this to say in general terms:

The winter has now completely set in, and our elegantes cannot, as formerly, be charged with a want of sufficient clothing: no bare elbows or thin muslin dresses are now seen in the out-door costume; on the contrary, our very fashionable belles are apt to run into an opposite extreme, and we have observed some winter habiliments which would be very suitable to the Russian climate. 

A bit of sarcasm, perhaps?

This gown is an Opera Pelisse.

Described as follows:


Made of the richest orange or amber twilled sarsnet, lined with ermine, the collar, cape and cuffs are also of ermine.  In the form of this dress there is nothing peculiarly novel, but its general effect is strikingly elegant and highly appropriate to the season.  The waist is very short, and the sleeves not quite so loose as they have been worn. Small turn-up hat of the same materials as the pelisse, superbly ornamented with white ostrich feathers and tied under the chin with a ribband to correspond. White kid shoes and gloves.

We have another December fashion plate to share next time. Until then, Happy Rambles

Regency Fashion for December

Just a quick reminder about the Holiday Contest on my website.

Our fashion article today is not what you would call cheerful but the description is so detailed I thought you would like it.

Princess Charlotte of Wales died November 6 1817 and Mourning Dress was still being worn in December as can be seen from this plate. The Princess was very popular and I think this would have been important to many people at this time

The Walking Dress
Plain round dress, composed of black bombazeen, the body is made up to the throat, and tight to the shape.  Plain long sleeves with white crape weepers.  The skirt is finished round the bottom by a number of black crape rouleaus.  Over this dress is worn a pelisse of black Levantine, open in front, and wrapping a little to one side.  The waist is very short, and the back is quite plain.  There is a small square collar which supports a very full ruff composed of white crape.  The collar, fronts, and bottom of the dress, ar finished by a broad trimming of black crape, which is laid on very full.  Plain long sleeves, finished at the wrist with black crape to correspond:  the upper part of the sleeve is full, but it is tight towards the wrist.  Head-dress, a small French bonnet composed of black Leghorn.  The edge of the front is ornamented by a rouleau of black crape; two rouleaus ornament the top of the crown; and one very broad one goes round the bottom of it.  A black crape band ties it under the chin; and a full bunch of artificial flowers, composed also of black crape, ornaments it on one side.  Black shamoy gloves and black shoes.
The Evening Dress
A black crape frock over a black sarsnet slip: the body is cut very low all round the bust, and very short in the waist.  The sleeve is very short and full.  A narrow white crape trimming, of a novel description goes round the bust, and both the body and sleeves are interspersed in a new style, with either black or white crape.  The skirt is of easy fullness; it is finished round the bottom by a broad trimming of either black or white crape disposed in festoons, and interspersed with cypress leaves, composed of black crape.  This is surmounted by a broad rouleau of either black or white crape, round which is twined a double row of polished jet beads.  The hair is dressed high behind, and in light curls on the forehead; it is ornamented only be an elegant jet comb.  Necklace and ear-rings of jet. Gloves of black shamoy leather; plain black silk shoes.


The use of jet for ornament is typical of this era for morning. I find the use of white as trim very interesting.


That is all from me on this occasion. In the new year, we will be looking at our fashions from a different angle.

Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion for December

Christmas is coming and the goose is getting fat Please put a penny in the old man's hat If you haven't got a penny and ha'penny will do, If you haven't got a ha'penny, God bless you.

An old song, but one we still remember and that reminds us to be charitable in this time of feasting.


A carriage dress from La Belle Assemblee 1813.

It is quite beautiful.

Thanks to Sue, whose comment you will find below, here is the description!

Kutusoff Mantle. Pink or scarlet cloth mantle, trimmed with a broad velvet ribband to correspond, a spenser of the same materials, one sleeve of which is concealed by the folds of the mantle; the collar, which is high and puckered, fastened at the throat with a broach; and a long lappel, which ends in a point, falls considerably over the left shoulder.

A Kutusoff hat of pink or scarlet cloth, turned up in front, with a little corner to the right side, ties under the chin, and is finished with a pink or scarlet feather; a full puffing of lace or net is seen underneath. Plain cambric high dress, and pink or scarlet leather half boots.

Our readers will be able to form a much better idea of this very elegant mantle from our Plate than from description; its effect upon a tall and graceful figure is amazingly striking, and it is, for the carriage costume, decidedly the most elegant cloak that we have seen for some seasons back, and does the greatest credit to the tasteful fancy of its inventress, Miss Powell, successor to Mrs. Franklin, Piccadilly.

This is a morning gown from:

The Ladies Monthly Museum, 1799

Here you see the classic look and the very high waist, but a surprisingly dark bodice.

This is an unusual print because it shows the back and the front of the same gown and is described as follows.

Demi corset of black or coloured velvet, lined and trimmed with blue silk. Bonnet a la Repentir, of black velvet trimmed with blue, and deep lace veil. White muslin or chintz dress. Slate-coloured gloves, bear muff, and purple shoes.

Until next time, Happy Rambles

Regency Fashion ~ December

I always love the beginning of the month, when I can indulge myself in Fashion!

First, a couple of bits of information. Starting in January, I will be having a regular new contributor to my Regency Ramble Blog. Her name is Ann Lethbridge and she writes Regencies for Harlequin Historicals and is as mad about the regency as I am. It probably won't take you very long to figure out why.

Secondly, if you are a newsletter subscriber, expect a newsletter to pop into your box during the month of December, where I will be letting you in on the secret.

La Belle Assemblee 1818, Satin evening dress with feathered hat.

Invented by Mrs. Bell: A Ceres frock with a very broad border of wheat ears in straw worked on tulle and worn over a white satis slip. Toque turban of tulle, elegantly worked with straw to correspond with Turkish foldings in front and crape and straw interspersed. Henrietta ruff of fine lace, fixed low and terminating at the shoulders. White stain shoes and white kid gloves.


Isn't it gorgeous. The Henrietta ruff which frames the face is lovely. Not very practical, but to me it seems rather romantic. December would be a time for country house parties, and I think appearing in a gown like this would certainly make the wearer a hit, if rather intimidating.

This plate is from the Ladies Monthly Museum for December 1799.

These are afternoon dresses.
The first one is a Dress of pink silk, the body and sleeves trimmed with black lace; black muslin train; round cap of white crape, with a small wreath of flowers, and ostrich feather. Light blue gloves and yellow shoes.

Now what do you think of blue gloves and yellow shoes with a pink dress. Come on now, be honest. lol I notice in the picture the lace is not looking black at all, though the gloves are definitely blue.

In the description for the second dress, I am assuming the term corset is used rather than bodice because this dress is laced up at the back. And the robe is all about the skirts, which is very plain. This one I like, even with the pink shoes. It is very different from the ornamented 1818 outfit.

Corset of white satin, the body and sleeves trimmed with chenille; lace round the neck and shoulders. Muslin robe, cap of white and yellow muslin intermixed.—Pale yellow gloves, and pink shoes.


As a bonus, our fashionista gives us a hint for the Season:

Note: Black velvet cloaks and scarlet kerseymere handkerchiefs and cloaks, trimmed with fur, begin to be worn much.


Now, you would just have to rush out and buy all of those items or feel thoroughly outmoded, wouldn't you?

That's it for fashions. Until next month, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion For December

I am leaving tonight for a research trip to England. I will only be gone for a week, but I thought I would leave you with some December Fashions while I am rambling in Bath amongst other places. I promise to bring back lots of interesting information!

The first two pictures are early in the era, and not yet the official Regency, but enchanting nonetheless.



The first plate is from the December 1805 Lady's Monthy MuseumThe Walking Dress is a Straw Gipsey Hat, trimmed with French Gray. Morning Dress, Spotted Muslin. Habit Shirt of the same. Cloak of Black Velvet, trimmed with Deep Lace. Swandown Muff and Buff Gloves. Buff Boots.
And the Evening dress
Of White Satin, Silver Tassels. Crimson Shawl, tied close round the Neck. Deep White Lace Veil. White Muff and Gloves.



This second plate is from a year later, December 1806 and also from the Lady's Monthly Museum. Beneath the shawl you can clearly see the high waist and low neck that we have come to associate with this era.

For the morning a White Muslin short Dress, trimmed with Lace round the Bottom—A Grey Pelisse of Georgian Cloth—Embossed Velvet Bonnet the same Colour—Silver Bear Muff.

The full dress is quite magnificent with the crimson shawl, don't you think. It is described as a White Sarsnet Round Dress with a long Train, and ornamented with Lace—Long Shawl of Crimson Silk—Hair fashionably Dressed—Swansdown Muff—White Kid Gloves and Shoes.



I thought I would do something from later in the period and given the holiday season I am adding the Christmas Pellisse from December 1818, almost at the end of the Regency. You have seen this one before, I know, but it is a favorite. It also gives us a good sense of how the styles had changed.


I will be back in a week or so, and will hopefully have some images of Britain that can tie into my flora and fauna post for December, and with any luck some interesting stuff about Jane Austen's Bath. Until then. Happy Rambles.